11/06/2010

Beauty of Oshima-tsumugi 2: Doro dyeing

Oshima-tusmugi's yarns are dyed with stain which includes rich tannin acid. Craftsmen need to immerse them in the stain and expose to air. They repeat this work a few dozen times with checking the color. While they dye the yearns, they put them into the calcic water in order to neutralize tannin acid and make the color stabilize.
In this process, yearns become red-brown, and the layer of the color becomes deeper.
After being died by Yeddo hawthorn, they dye with mud. That mud is fine and each grain is round (fine and round grain doesn’t damage yern) and has many irons because Amami-Oshima's stratum is old. Clay has many irons, so it looks red. When we dye the yarns with this clay, rich tannin acid included in the Yeddo hawthorn and clay's iron causes a chemical reactions and yarns become black. Also Doro-dyeing makes gloss and supple yarns and has effect to protect them from bugs, static and odor. It also protect them from color-dulling.
It is wonderful knowledge using nature power. Repeating this Yeddo hawthorn dying and Doro-dyeing makes color deeper.
Historically, Oshima-tsumugi pongee is already recorded in Nara-era (from 710 A.D. to 793 A.D.) as a "bistred –tsumugi which is came from south islands". This bistred-Tsumugi is considered to be Oshima-Tsumugi now. It is said that ancient dying techniques like Plum-dying and Peach-dying introduced into Amami-oshima Island. It is said that Bistred –tsumugi is original style of Ooshima-tsumugi. Ooshima-tsumugi is dyed with Yeddo hawthorn, Chin-tree and Fuku-tree which are indigenous at Amami-oshima Island.
Oshima-tsumugi utilize Amami-oshima's nature effectively. I am wondering what kind of reaction I can get from New Yorkers, when I wear Ooshima-tsumugi in NY.

1 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Good Article

December 30, 2010 at 5:21 PM  

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