1/02/2012

NY test photo shoot in December

We took a test photo shooting after a long interval in December.
This time I worked with a talented photographer, Wesley and a make-up artist, Ai.
The photo shows that Wesley held branches on the set which he prepared before the shooting. Everyone provided various ideas and various properties came out. I was so passionate for the moment.
Although this session was held on the Holiday season in December, we decided to make it because I had a request to send some of my fashion pieces to the haute couture fashion magazines in Italy. This magazine previously carried my interview article. I am very happy to hear that this magazine is interested in my fashion pieces themselves.
Wesley, Ai, and I had planned to make our pieces on the test photo shoot, but unfortunately, we had had no chance to set it. This time, as I told Wesley and Ai that I would like to send our fashion photos to the magazine, they finally set our photo session. I think that I am surrounded by many great artists.
The model, Milana, was as a beautiful girl as I had expected. She, coming from Russian, is very busy to move around the world for her business because she belongs to the very famous model agency in the world. She looked displeased at first, but she told us later that she was exhausted from lack of sleep. She took part in the photo shoot from 11AM to 6PM. She finally showed a full of smile. I wish Milana becomes flourished in the world.
The sky becomes dark at 4PM in New York in this season. It becomes as dark as the night at 5PM. As you see on the photo, we did not take photos in the dark. We used bright lights for making various shadows, which affects fashion pieces interestingly.
Every time the studio for the photo shooting in NY is fun with full of emotions and ideas. I enjoyed this time very much with excitement. I look forward to the finished works.
* The photo shows the obi which was made by HINAYA KYOTO.

12/05/2011

Gujyo-Tsumugi and Oshima-Tsumugi Kimonos

We had a holiday called Thanksgiving day on November 24th. This holiday is similar as Obon, a Japanese Buddhist custom to honor the spirits of one's ancestors and Oshogatsu, a Japanese New Year holiday. On that day, most of the shops and works are closed. People gather with their family and have dinner with them. The holiday season starts.
I was busy from late October to early November. I worked for VOGUE Paris and i-D magazine, so on. In Japan, December is called Shiwasu, meaning the month when teachers or priests run. I was really running these days.

The day before Thanksgiving day, my husband gave me a present, which includes Gujyo-Tsumugi and Oshima-Tsumugi kimonos. He said “You did really great jobs this year and this present was a prize for your efforts of this year. “

Gujyo-Tsumugi fabrics were loved by Ms. Masako Shirasu, a famous essayist for Japanese culture. They are all hand woven and dyed with plant. It takes long way to produce them. They look rustic, but powerful and elegant with various stripes and color graduations.

Long time ago, Gujyo-Tsumugi fabrics were woven by farmers who lived in Gujyo-Hachiman, Gifu Prefecture, the center of Japan. They made Tsumugi pongees for their daily clothes. In the Showa period (1926-1989), they gradually disappeared. But Mr. Rikizan Munahiro, who was the first living national treasure for weaving Tsumugi pongees in Japan, revitalized Gujyo-Tsumugi pongees. Rikizan educated pioneer farmers and after WWⅡ, he studied natural dye and TSUMUGI as well as trained the research students. He also developed market for their hand-woven Tsumugi for the industry of Gujyo-Hachiman. Now we can enjoy Gujyo-Tsumugi thanks to him as well as many craftsmen.

When I touched this Gujyo-Tsumugi kimono for the first time, I was surprised at its warmness. It’s really cold in winter in NY. We have to withstand sub-zero temperature outside. I will love to wear this Gujyo-Tsumugi kimono in this winter season.

Unfortunately, recently craftsmen of Gujyo-Tsumugi fabrics become old and gradually decrease. I heard that they can produce only 10 kimonos or so per month. I read one article; it’s possible that we cannot get new Gujyo-Tsumugi fabrics anymore within 3 years. I always wonder if we have any solution to continue to create these wonderful kimonos.
I was surprised to see this Oshima-Tsumugi kimono. How wonderful it is! 
It was made by the traditional technique called “Hon-Warikomi-Shiki” technique (the interruption weaving technique) and dyed with natural indigo and clay. Hon-Warikomi-Shiki technique was once diminished. But recently, although it is not the same technique as it used to be, craftsmen tried to recreate it. Compared to the nine Maruki Katasu technique (One of the standard weaving techniques for Kasuri splash patterns.), Hon-Warikomi-Shiki technique can attain more Kasuri splash patterns and more complicated and clear designs. Oshima-Tsumugi fabrics are usually designed by gradation and density, while Oshima-Tsumugi fabrics made by the Hon-Warikomi-Shiki technique are designed much more stereoscopically. 

I was surprised how preciously this kimono was made. This kimono was old and its size was too small, but I think it is really a wonderful kimono. My husband told me that the price was really low. I think that the kimono craftsmen decrease as well as the customers who know and understand the real great kimonos.

All the old Oshim-Tsumugi kimonos were made by the Hon-Warikomi-Shiki technique. Since Oshim-Tsumugi kimonos were very popular around 1970’s and needed to be made in high volume. At that time, some of them were made in Korea and were not dyed with natural clay, but with chemical dyes. Recently some of pattern designs or no pattern designs of Oshima-Tsumugi kimonos can be machine–woven. But I convince that old great Oshima-Tsumugi kimono woven by the hand-woven Hon-Warikomi-Shiki technique is really a treasure of human beings,

I think that craftsmen use all the five senses when they create products with their hand working. These fabrics also contain their history, experience, and sense. I believe it’s impossible to recreate them by machine.

Both Gujyo-Tsumugi and Oshima-Tsumugi kimonos/fabrics are wonderful. And I feel very sad to know that these kimono craftsmen decrease rapidly. I always wonder if there are ways in which I could do for this crisis

11/20/2011

The origin of YUZEN dyeing, 1,300 years ago

We can enjoy foliage season here in New York. Compared to mid-Manhattan, the place which I live has many natures. I am impressed by the colored leaves through my room windows. They evoke me kimono’s pattern and color. I think autumn is one of the best seasons to wear kimono in NY.
The other day, I was reading about YUZEN and came up with an interesting YUZEN history.
The original technique of YUZEN dyeing started in the Nara period (710-794). It is called “Roukechi”, meaning wax resist textile (“Rouzome”). YUZEN uses sticky rice for a starch to substitute for wax. The Nara period was the first golden age for pattern dyeing. At that time, three popular pattern dyeing were established; “Roukechi”, “Kokechi”: origin of tie-dyeing (“Shibori-zome”) and “Kyokechi”: origin of board-band-dyeing (“Itajime-zome”). Furthermore, the origin of drawing (“Egakie”) and Woodblock printing (“Surie”), both of which are made by dye and pigment, were established in this period.

Unfortunately, the origin of the YUZEN technique had diminished temporarily. The reason is that people’s fashion had changed. The main fashion of the court in the Heian period (794-1185) was multi-layered court dress (“Kasane-shozoku”), for example twelve-layered kimono (“Jyuni-hitoe”). People focused on Ksane-no-irome, the gradation of the color. You may read about it in my previous article;
Kimono demonstration at Van Gogh Museum”.
There were more than 200 combinations in multi-layered color patterns. The fabrics were dyed by just one color and weaved with the background pattern called “Jimonn”. It’s possible that increased demand of mono-colored fabrics caused break of the complex techniques for pattern printing of fabrics. It’s interesting that the change of beauty sense might cease transmission of original “Yuzen” techniques.

Pictures from catalog of Shoso-in-ten
"Sheep and Tree Rokechi Byobu folding screen"
"Elephant and Tree Rokechi Byobu folding screen"
The exhibition “Shouso-in-ten” was held at Nara City, Japan. Shoso-in is the treasure house that belongs to Todai-ji, which was found in the mid-8th century. Unfortunately, we cannot directly see Shoso-in’s treasures, but we can see them twice a year, because of airing for the treasures. These are the representative works made by the technique, Rokechi, in the Nara period.

In the Jomon period (BC145-BC10), people used season’s flowers and grasses to color the fabrics. These ancient people wanted to trap the natural beauty to their fabrics. I understand their feeling when I see beautiful autumn color of leaves.

11/06/2011

Two representative Japanese modern artists came to NY

The international auction company Christie’s and organizer of Kaikai Kiki, Mr. Takashi Murakami will present the Tohoku-Pacific earthquake charity auction on November 9th. A preview of the auction was held at Gagosian Gallery on October 27th. Mr. Takashi Murakami and Mr. Yoshitomo Nara came to the event. Mr. Nara will submit his three art pieces to this auction. This picture was taken when they were interviewed by media at the preview.

Mr. Murakami made a speech to the American media about the background of this charity event for the disaster victims and explained the meanings of his arts pieces which he will submit to the auction. 15 artists are going to join the auction. Most of the art pieces were completed after the disaster and each artist implied his/her feeling for the disaster.

One of the Japanese artists, whose name is “Mr.”, drew a cheerful girl and wrote a hiragana (Japanese character) phrase “I’m going!! [よしっ(ち)!!]”. Many American media made various questions to him. He said the earthquake shock was really big to him, but he thought he should cheer the Japanese people through his work.

Total proceed of the auction is estimated about 5 million dollars. Mr. Murakami set up really a big project. It was my first time to meet with Mr. Murakami and I was overwhelmed by him, because he had a tremendous impact and aura. I hand him my business card and talked with him a little bit. I felt more nervous than ever before. As I used to live near the Tokyo University of the Art (Tokyo Geijutsu Daigaku) before I came to New York, I had many chances to see his works in Japan. I had thought his art gave us power and I really love his works.

I went to the preview with my company staff, Sugiura. It was her first time to directly see his works. She told me with her surprised face, “His real works are wonderful... I am totally impressed”. I was impressed too. I had an impression that his works gave us energy to our spirits, which is very important to our life.

Mr. Murakami’s words and books tell me that art is an expression which conveys messages from artists to people in the world. As I write many times, I always would like to propose Kimono as a fashion to the world. I keenly feel the importance of continuing to covey my message to the world. Last month, one of the world top three news service agencies, AFP reported my kimono fashion show in NYC. I had interviews from Italian fashion magazine, Italian newspaper, and so on. I should continue to propose Kimono as a fashion to the world.

I truly hope the messages from 15 artists will deliver to the world as well as to the disaster victims through this auction.




10/30/2011

Innumerable possibilities of the Japanese fabrics

The exhibition “Fiber Futures: Japan's Textile Pioneers” is held at Japan Society in New York City from Sept. 16th to Dec. 18th, 2011.
http://www.japansociety.org/event/fiber-futures-japans-textile-pioneers
A friend of mine invited me to the reception of the exhibition.

The fabrics of HINAYA KYOTO, offering us various Obis, are used at many art pieces which you may see at this exhibition.

 I was able to see a couple of dozens of art pieces.
This art piece is the most impressing for me. It reminds me a bed nets. I used to use it in my childhood. 


There were many art pieces, each of which is wonderful, but their layout seemed inappropriate. The distance between each art piece was too close, so it is difficult to identify what each artist wants to express on the art piece.

We have to compare the exhibition at this gallery with one at MOMA (The Museum of Modern Art in New York). When we saw art pieces at MOMA, we not only directly receive the story of the art pieces, but also easily understand their backgrounds and the life of the artists. I think that the curators of the museum or galleries need sharp sense of how to display art pieces.
I met many arts at this exhibition and I was strongly impressed by the previous art piece I had introduced and the art pieces I show on the following photos. I convinced that the Japanese fabrics have innumerable possibilities.



10/15/2011

"You've got to find what you love" by Steven Jobs

As I wrote at the previous article, our company had kimono fashion show at BK fashion weekend. This is the picture which was taken after the fashion show.
I remember the message from Steven Jobs. He said, “You've got to find what you love,” at the graduation ceremony at Stanford Univ.
I think the reason why he was able to come back to his work ten years after he forced off the job from Apple Inc. is that he really loved his work, so he did not matter whether he had quit his job or not. He just continued his work because he loved it.
I really understand what he said. Because, I love kimono so much.

Many people visited me to the back stage. One of the most famous Chef Michael Romano came to my fashion show and visited me after the show. This picture was taken at that time. The fashion show was held at Brooklyn, surrounded by many storage buildings and I appreciated him for taking time in his busy schedule.
I heard he loves Japanese culture. I think the key of his success comes from his energy to pursue the thing he loves and move into action. 

The Consul and vice consul came from Japan Consulate General and the two people came from Japan society to see the show. Thank you very much.
This is the picture taken with my friends. 


My kimono piece was presented three times on the big Reuters screen at Times Square for the announcement of the show. This is the picture of the screen. 

I realized my kimono work was presented in many ways here in NY. After our fashion show, I strongly feel that the things which we really love will certainly come true.

10/09/2011

Mode & Classic Spring Summer 2012 collection at BK Fashion Weekend

Our company MODE & CLASSIC NEW YORK had an opportunity to make a presentation of our Spring/Summer 2012 collection at Brooklyn Fashion weekend in New York on September 29, 2011. The show was sponsored by MTV. I named the title of our fashion show as “Mode & Classic”, which is the same as my company’s name. I tried to express “Fusion”. The show demonstrated the change from classic to modern, including dress change by myself on the stage.

This time, I was very pleased to have a chance to present summer kimonos “Ro” and “Sha (Sya)”. I think summer kimonos look elegant.

All the Obis were made by HINAYA KYOTO, except the green and gold Obi used for the first Furisode model. Beads Obi-jime cords were made by beads designer, maco. The hair set and makeup were performed by Kimiyuki Misawa and Ai Yokomizo, respectively. It was my honor to work with all of them. I also appreciate the organizer of BK Fashion Weekend, Rick Davy.

Mr. Alvin G. Bowen, an American Football player, joined our show. I dressed him in classical Montuki-haori-hakama style. He walked on runway at first, as well as with me hand in hand at the finale. 

These are the pictures of Mode & Classic Spring/Summer 2012 collections. 




I made dress change on the stage. 
 Classic to Mode 











Our show was covered by some media in the United States. The following article wrote about our show exactly what I wanted to express at the show.
http://www.examiner.com/fashion-photography-in-new-york/mode-classic-new-york-spring-summer-2012

You can also see some pictures of our show at the following sites.
http://www.punchphotography.com/gallery/Mode-and-Classic-New-York-Spring-Summer-2012/G0000hISth_SmFMc
http://nycrunways.com/2011/09/mode-classic-springsummer-2012/

I am fully appreciate and proud to have our presentation at BK fashion weekend.

I would like to sincerely thank the people who gave me this opportunity and the people who supported us.